Over 90% of Japanese matcha bamboo whisks are made in a small village in northwestern Nara Prefecture . The tradition dates back over 500 years, when the Tokugawa shogunate granted 13 families in Takayama village the Tanimura surname along with hunting rights. For centuries, the artisans worked only at night and passed their skills by word of mouth to the family's eldest sons to ensure the craft remained a secret. Of those original 13 families, only three remain. Tango Tanimura is the 20th generation head of one of those three, having learned the skill from his father—just like his ancestors before him.
Watch the video of how to make a chasen
What does a typical day look like for you?
To make a whisk from start to finish takes two hours. Generally, however, I do them in batches, working on one step at a time. There are five steps in total. This is a more efficient method and means I can outsource some steps to helpers around the village, as some are easier than others. If one person focuses on doing only phase one, you can get through about 30 in a day. I have 12 people working for me this way, and they mostly do it from home. It's kind of a solitary endeavor that way.
“In the past, bamboo whisk artisans worked by candlelight at night to protect the method and keep it secret.”
Of course, there are sometimes last-minute orders or those that have to meet a specific deadline. In those cases, I make them from scratch as needed. For the most part, my work focuses on the third stage. I start around 9 a.m.—quite late, really—but in the past, bamboo whisk artisans worked by candlelight at night. This was to protect the method and keep it secret. For over 500 years, the artisans of Takayama have been whipping in this way, and even now, it's the only place in Japan that makes them. Now, about 70% of the bamboo whisks sold in Japan come from China, but nearly 100% of those made in Japan are produced here in Takayama. That's because they kept the skill here for so long—it didn't leak to other regions. Even within the family, they were strict about who they would pass the knowledge on to; usually the firstborn son.
Why did you choose this position?
Well, it runs in the family. That's the main reason why. I didn't grow up thinking, "Oh, this is something I really want to do." After I graduated from college, I became a salaried employee and opened a home furnishings store. My parents let me do whatever I wanted. But when I was 29, I started thinking about how I should take care of my parents as I got older. So I came home and started learning how to make whisks. That was about 26 or 27 years ago. I enjoy doing it and I have fun while I work.
There are many types of traditional crafts in Japan, but everyone faces the same problem when it comes to passing them on to the next generation. Children, or young people, aren't really interested. Moreover, it's not very attractive in terms of income, and many parents don't want to force their children into it. So they ask them to study.
I also have children, and of course, I tell them to study hard, but I haven't talked to them about taking over [the family business]. If one of them wants to, then it's not right. For me, work should be fun—or at the very least, the person doing it should feel it's worth doing. If someone complains about their job, saying how hard it is every day, then the children won't want to do it either. One of the most important things is to be confident and do work that inspires them to try it for themselves.
What is the most important aspect of being a bamboo whisk craftsman?
The most important thing to keep in mind is, of course, that bamboo whisks are consumable products. So, they don't last forever, but they should last a long time. To make them last longer, the teeth I shave need to be as thick as possible to prevent breakage. But on the other hand, if they're too thick, they won't be buoyant enough and the tips will break. It's a balance between making it strong enough to last a long time, but flexible enough to prevent breakage.
“Without money, a craftsman can survive, but without bamboo, a chasen craftsman is miserable.”
Ultimately, it has to be easy for the consumer to use; that's my goal every day. In our business, many of our customers are very upfront about the products. If you buy a chasen in a store and it breaks or doesn't work well, then what do you do? Who do you complain to? Many of my customers are tea ceremony teachers or members of famous tea schools, so they often use chasen . It may sound wrong to put it that way, but I can't send [my customers] low-quality items. I know where they're going, and they know, of course, that I made them. It's a relationship based on mutual trust.
What is the most difficult part of the job?
Obtaining materials. I don't go out and cut bamboo poles myself; I buy them from suppliers. There are fewer people doing this kind of work because many older people are retiring. Farmers used to cut bamboo in winter when they had time to do it. But since farming methods changed, this custom has gradually faded. When bamboo is left unattended, it grows at an explosive rate. Bamboo must be cut regularly, or excessive growth will limit the sun and space. The poles become thickened and don't grow straight, and they damage each other.
Most bamboo in this region can't be used for bamboo whisks. We usually use hachiku, a type of bamboo that has existed in Japan for a long time. Moso bamboo from China—the type whose shoots you can eat—is the most invasive species and makes up more than half of the bamboo in Japan today. This makes sense, since people can eat it. They can keep forests healthy by drilling on excessive shoots, keeping the forests clear. As for hachiku, while you can technically eat the shoots, it's not common, so people don't grow it. I can't work without materials, so without bamboo, my skills are useless. My father used to say that without money, a craftsman can survive, but without bamboo, a chasen craftsman is miserable. I agree.
What is the best part of the job?
Meeting new people. Seeing them smile. It makes me happy. Hearing that my chasen are easy to use is the best part. I also give tours now, with demonstrations. People from all over the world come here. I don't speak English, but I get confused, and it seems to work. Even if I don't say anything and just demonstrate my work, visitors watch with great interest. You don't need words for that. Back then, artisans carved alone in silence. Now I can show people my work and see their reactions in real time. It's fun to share the wonder when people see it for the first time. I hope people will drink matcha, too. You don't have to take tea ceremony classes. All you need is matcha, a bamboo whisk, and a tea bowl. Anyone can do it.
“You don't need words for that. Back then, craftsmen carved alone in silence.”
What is the most surprising thing you have experienced while working?
Once, a Hollywood actress came here, but I had no idea who she was at the time. She came with her family. They watched me work and tried a hunting experiment where you weave thread around the base. I remember thinking she was very tall and thin, but I couldn't have imagined she was a famous actress. Anyway, they left, and about a week later, I got a call from someone in Akita Prefecture, asking if Stana Katic was still there. I had no idea who they were talking about—I'd already moved on, not knowing who she was and having forgotten what had happened a week before. So I told them no one by that name had ever been here, and they weren't planning on coming here either. But I got curious and looked up their name online. I immediately recognized her face and discovered that she was the lead actress in a show called Castle . It turns out she had posted a picture of me on her Instagram. The Japanese Akita fan had seen it, and assuming she was still there, she asked if they could visit her so they could meet her. I wish someone had told me sooner!
Do you have any advice for someone considering becoming a bamboo whisk craftsman?
If someone wanted to become a hunted craftsman, I would first warn them that there isn't much money in it. [ Laughs ] If they want to do this kind of work anyway, then of course, I would encourage them to try. Not everyone can do it, but you don't know until you try. Previously, only family members did different parts of the process, but now local people can do it. However, there is one condition: they have to live nearby. Also, it takes at least 10 years to learn the entire process. That's why we only teach certain steps. If you only learn phase one, it can take a year. This means that the person learning can become proficient quickly, turn it into a viable job, and earn an income. It makes more economic sense for the person learning it. Learning everything and not earning any money just doesn't work because of the time it takes.
Book a tour : Tango Tanimura doesn't speak much English, but his demonstrations are mostly self-explanatory. Non-Japanese speakers who want detailed explanations of the process should bring an interpreter. Reservations should ideally be made at least two weeks in advance to ensure availability. You can follow Tango Tanimura's work on Instagram at @leoniki
by Lisa Wallin